Blog post written by Gary | 13 April 2017 | Category: Ponds
Pond plants are normally split into four categories; marginal, deep water, floaters and oxygenators. In this blog we will cover the oxygenators.
Oxygenators can either be potted or bunched for your pond. Some plants like Crystalwort and Water Crowsfoot can be both be potted or bunched and will grow easily in both situations.
Weighted bunched plants are usually placed in the pond as they come and will start to grow fairly quickly depending on water conditions and the weather. Planting depth varies between plants, however the majority like a depth of around 10” to 12” or deeper. Some can grow from a depth of 6 feet. All bunched oxygenators will grow in either full sun or part shade.
Potted oxygenators can normally be placed along with other marginal plants on the shelf section of the pond or can be placed in with the deep water marginals depending on the variety of oxygenating plant. Potted oxygenators are also available in larger contour baskets giving a variety of mature plants to help oxygenate and mature the pond. The majority of potted oxygenators will happily grow in either part shade or full sun. The only potted oxygenator which does not like full sun is Water Violet which prefers part shade only.
Below is a list of the oxygenating plants we keep in stock depending on availability and the season.
- Water crowsfoot
- Canadian pondweed
- Eleocharis acicularis
- Mare’s tail
- Water violet
- Scirpus cirnus
- Minature pondwort
Here at Weald Aquatics we are “Be Plant Wise” which means we follow the Defra and OATA code in not selling invasive aquatic plants.
Blog post written by Gary | 09 October 2013 | Category: Ponds
Autumn is the most important season for pond maintenance as nearly all the pond plants will start to die back. Non hardy plants should be kept in water in a heated greenhouse or conservatory over the winter, marginals should be cut back as the leaves turn brown to just above the water level and deepwater plants can be fertilised with either a liquid or tablet fertiliser ready for the spring.
If you have trees around the pond, place a net across the pond to prevent leaves entering the pond causing extra sludge and organic waste.
As the water gets colder it is best to start feeding your fish on a wheatgerm based food which is easier for the fish to digest in cooler temperatures. A pond thermometer is ideal for determining if and when to start feeding a winter feed. In the depths of winter your fish will be inactive and therefore will not be feeding. Remove any food left in the pond after a few minutes as this will rot down and place an extra biological load on the filter system.
It is best to keep the pump and filter running through the winter to maintain a healthy pond and to stop the pond freezing over. The pump should be cleaned and checked and the filter media cleaned in pond water to retain the beneficial bacteria for breaking down the fish waste.
The UV unit can be left on to keep the suspended algae at bay. If the UV unit is turned off with no water running through then it should be removed, cleaned and dried, otherwise when the water freezes it will crack the quartz glass assembly.
To stop the water freezing over if you have turned the pump off, you can install a pond heater which will keep a small area of the pond ice free, allowing a fresh supply of oxygen to the pond and preventing the build-up of toxic gases in the pond which can stress the fish.
Winter can be stressful to the fish. By adding a pond tonic and pond salt to the water, it will give the fish a health boost through the winter months.
Blog post written by Gary | 05 September 2013 | Category: Ponds
Pond plants are normally split into four categories: marginal, deep water, floaters and oxygenators. In this blog we will cover the deep water plants.
The two types of aquatic pond plants which will thrive in water down to depth of 1 metre are lilies and deep water marginals, both are available in 3 litre pots.
We currently have a list of 72 varieties of water lily (Nymphaea), which are split into 4 colours (white, pink, red and yellow) of which the white variety Alba is native to the British Isles.
As mentioned previously some varieties of lilies can be planted down to a depth of 120cm which will then give a spread of 180cm or more when fully grown. The majority of lilies will have a planting depth of between 15cm and 100cm which will then give a spread of between 50cm and 120cm.
For small ponds there are dwarf and Pygmy lilies available with spreads of 30cm and small leaves which will not crowd the pond.
Deep water marginals as the name suggest are marginal plants which will thrive in pond depths down to 100cm in the same zone as water lilies. There are 6 varieties we have in stock of which 4 are native to the British Isles.
Shade is provided by the deep water marginals on the water surface by the floating leaves, helping to reduce algae. Flowers from deep water marginals are borne on the water surface or held above the water. Some are scented, some exotically fascinating, but all will bring beauty to the pond. The long underwater stems of the plants will provide excellent habitat for water insects and water snails.
Below is a list of popular lilies we keep in stock depending on availability and the season.
Charles De Meurville
Dwarf and Pygmy
Little Sue - red
Perry’s Baby - red
Pygmaea Alba - white
Pygmaea Helvola - yellow
Here at Weald Aquatics we are “Be Plant Wise” which means we follow the Defra and OATA code in not selling invasive aquatic plants. If you would like more information on what plants are invasive to the countryside pop into the shop and pick up the leaflet Be Plant Wise.
Blog post written by Gary | 14 August 2013 | Category: Ponds
This month our pictorial guide shows how to install a rigid pond, waterfall and filter system. The products used are the Blagdon Damselfly 750 litre rigid pond, the Bermuda Colwyn pebble cascade waterfall and the Bermuda FilterForce 6000 kit which comes complete with a pressurised filter including a UV light unit which will keep the pond both clear of water-borne algae and mechanical particles. The pond was installed by Tony a Weald Aquatics customer over a number of days.
Blog post written by Gary | 06 June 2013 | Category: Ponds
Here at Weald Aquatics we test the products we sell to make sure they really work. So when our pond fish units which were moved outdoors in the spring started to go green we decided to try out the products we have in stock for removing green water.
After a number of tests we found Tetra Algorem to be the most effective in removing the green water and for keeping the water clear of suspended algae for a number of weeks.
For an on-going test we are now trying Tetra Algorem in the new pond at Coolings on Rushmoor Hill. We will keep you informed of the results.
Blog post written by Gary | 09 September 2012 | Category: Ponds
Hopefully your pond plants will have kept healthy and grown vigorously over the summer. The only problem is that they might have outgrown their pots. If so, this is a good time of year to pull them out of the pond and re-pot them to give them the best chance of flourishing. Here's our quick guide on what you need to do as well as the equipment you will need to do this.
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