Blog post written by Gary | 18 November 2015 | Category: Aquarium and pond equipment
As winter is nearly upon us, the room in which your aquarium is situated may get colder therefore making your aquarium heater work harder. If the temperature drops too low the fish will be more susceptible to diseases such as Whitespot or bacterial infections.
To make sure your aquarium is kept at the correct temperature it is wise to invest in a thermometer to monitor the aquarium temperature, which should ideally be between 24c and 27c for most common tropical fish. Thermometers are available either as a stick-on unit which attaches to the glass outside of the aquarium, or a standard glass thermometer which attaches to the glass inside the aquarium. Also now available are precision digital thermometers giving greater accuracy, some of which are fitted with an alarm to let you know the temperature has dropped to a dangerous level.
It is good idea to check your heater is working correctly. This can be done by looking for the red neon indicator light which is fitted to most heaters. This will be lit when the heater is on and heating the water in the aquarium.
If you are finding the heater is struggling to keep the aquarium water within the normal tropical temperature range, you may need to increase the temperature at which the heater has been set. Most heaters have a dial which has been set to the required temperature; however as the heater becomes older the temperature can sometimes drift down, at which point the temperature dial may have to be increased by a degree or two to compensate for the drift in temperature.
The heater should never be taken out of the aquarium unless the power to the heater has been turned off for at least 30 minutes this will allow the heater to cool down. Should the heater be taken out of the aquarium while it is still hot there is a risk the heater glass will crack damaging the heater.
Blog post written by Gary | 14 November 2013 | Category: Aquarium and pond equipment
It has been known for a long time that UV light of a certain wavelength has germicidal properties. The wavelength between 200nm (nanometers) and 280nm is UVC radiation and the wavelength of 254nm (or if you want to be exact 253.7nm) is the most efficient at destroying or severely disrupting most micro-organisms.
We have two types of products which use UV lamps: an aquarium sterilizer and a pond clarifier. Both have the same UV lamps but are used to solve different problems.
The aquarium sterilizer is set up to destroy many organisms including fungal spores, some bacteria, protozoans, viruses, Oodiniun and Cryptocaryonin found in marine aquariums. A UV sterilizer is usually installed in the return pipe back to the aquarium from an external filter as any dirty water or discolouration of the water will interfere with the treatment of the water.
There are many benefits in fitting a UV sterilizer to an aquarium especially a marine aquarium:
- It reduces bacteria and pathogen levels and helps to keep Whitespot in check.
- It helps the introduction of new fish.
- It improves water quality.
- It reduces the risk of any disease spreading.
A pond clarifier works in the same way as the aquarium sterilizer in using a UV lamp, however it is set up to primarily to destroy waterborne algae giving a crystal clear pond. The pond UV unit can be installed before or after the filter or in some installations just the UV unit without a filter system, with the pond water being pumped through and back into the pond.
UV lamps should normally be replaced every 6 months (4000 hours) in an aquarium sterilizer and 12 months (8000 hours) in a pond clarifier. When changing lamps the quartz glass which protects the UV lamp should be cleaned to maintain optimum performance of the unit.
UV radiation is dangerous; never look directly at an illuminated UV lamp.
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